Finding the Right Bra





Bras minimize jiggling and shape the appearance of a girl's breasts.
They're also helpful from a health standpoint. Wearing the right bra
keeps a girl's breasts supported while she's playing a sport and can
help prevent injury to breast tissue. A well-fitting bra is also
important for a woman's posture, particularly if she has large breasts. A
bra that doesn't fit can cause back problems, muscle tension, and even
headaches.


Yet 8 out of 10 women wear bras that don't fit.


All About Straps, Snaps, Bands, and Cups





Finding the right bra doesn't have to be an ordeal if you know the
basics of bra sizing. There are two parts to a bra's size: the chest
size (also called the band size) and the cup size.


The chest, or band, size is the part of the bra that runs across a
girl's chest and around her back. The cups are the parts of the bra that
hold the breasts. Bras come in many sizes, which are different
combinations of the chest sizes (shown as numbers — in the United
States, these are 32, 34, 36, etc.) and cup sizes (shown as letters —
AA, A, B, C, etc.).


It's important to get both the chest and cup sizes right to ensure a
proper fit. If a girl wears a bra that's the wrong chest size, the bra's
band will either feel tight and uncomfortable around her ribcage or it
will be too loose and ride up her breasts. Bras that are too small in
the cup will compress the breasts and force them to bulge out the sides
(think armpit boobs). And cups that are too big can wrinkle and pucker,
which won't look good under clothes.
Measuring at Home






So how do you calculate your chest and cup measurements? It's easy,
and it's something you can do in the privacy of your own room at home.
All you need is a tape measure.










Chest measurement.



Bra fitting experts offer two methods of calculating the chest
measurement. The most common method involves running a tape measure just
under your breasts, all the way around your back and ribcage.
The tape measure should rest flat on your skin and lie straight across
your back — not so tight that it digs in, but not so loose that it sags
down in back. Make a note of your measurement and add 5 inches. That's
your chest size.


You can also estimate your chest size by running a tape measure across your chest above
your breasts, under your armpits, and around your back (measure from
the same back position as in the first chest measurement option). This
method is easier because you don't have to do any addition or other
calculation, but some people feel it's less accurate than using the
first method.





If your chest measurement comes out as an odd number (such as 31
inches or 33 inches), it's usually a good rule to round down to the next
number. Most bras have a few sets of adjustable hooks and eyes, so you
can adjust the tightness. It's a good idea to round down, rather than
round up, since bras tend to stretch over time.


Cup measurement. As with the chest measurement, when
you're measuring for cup size, make sure the tape is not too loose or
too tight. If you already own an unpadded bra that fits well,
wear it when measuring for cup size. Be careful about the type of bra
you wear to take your measurements, though. Sports bras can flatten
breasts and give a cup reading that's too small, and padded or lined
bras have the opposite effect.


This time, when you run the tape measure around your body, you're going to take the measurement across the fullest
part of your breasts. Write down this number. Now subtract your chest
measurement. If the difference between the two numbers is less than 1
inch, your cup size is AA. If it's 1 inch, your cup size is A; 2 inches,
you're a B; 3 inches you're a C, and so on.


So you've taken your measurements and you're in the fitting room
trying a bra in what's supposed to be your size — but it doesn't seem to
fit. Now what?






Different brands and styles of bras will fit differently. So bring
several options with you into the dressing room to start. And before you
pile on all your clothes just to go out and look for a different size,
experiment by making some adjustments to the bra. If the bra has an
adjustable closure, extend or shorten the band slightly by moving the
hooks to a different spot or adjusting the velcro if the bra has a
velcro closing. The bottom band of a properly fitting bra should ride
across the middle of your back and pass under your shoulder blades to
provide the right support.


A bra's straps allow you to modify how the cups fit and support your
breasts. When the straps are the right length, a bra lifts the breasts
comfortably and the back of the bra will run straight across your back
(if a bra is pulling upward in the back, it may be a sign that the
straps are too tight). You should be able to get one finger under the
straps to prevent them from digging into your shoulders. In general,
girls who are petite will need to wear their bra straps shorter than
girls who are tall. If you've made the straps looser and they are still
digging into your shoulders, the cup size might be too small for you.


The cups also might be too small if you notice your breasts bulging
out the sides, top, or bottom of the bra. If you notice that the cups
are puckering or that there is a gap between your breasts and the bra,
the cups are too big.
Bra Booby Traps








In addition to fit, there are some other things you might want to take into account when choosing a bra.


Breast growth. A girl's breasts can grow and change
rapidly during the teen years, which means that until you stop
developing, you might have to change your bra size several times. If
your breasts are still growing, consider buying fewer bras and measure
yourself frequently to double-check your size.


Because growth can make a girl's breasts sensitive, you might find
certain styles or fabrics work better for you. For example, some girls
like seamless cups because they don't irritate the nipples; others
choose styles that minimize jiggle to ease the occasional aches of
breast development.


Menstrual changes. Some girls' breasts change size
or shape at different times in their menstrual cycles. Many girls find
they like to wear different styles of bras at different times in their
cycle.


Different-sized breasts. Most girls' breasts grow at
different rates — and many girls find themselves with one boob that's
bigger than its partner. This is so common that bra manufacturers design
their products so they can be adjusted to accommodate asymmetrical
breasts. Start by moving the strap adjusters on a bra to different
lengths to see if this helps.


Some girls also use the trick of buying a bra that has removable
padding and then taking the extra padding out of the cup for the larger
breast. Push-up bras can work well for this because they often come with
an easily removable padded section (called a "cookie") that sits under
the breast.


Hooks, wires, and other hazards. Take a look at the
bra you're about to buy and imagine how it might survive a full day of
wear. If the front closure pops open too easily, could this bra let you
down in front of your entire drama class? The bra's straps may feel fine
in the fitting room, but if the adjusters are sitting right on your
shoulder or collarbone, how will that feel under your backpack?


Test to see if the bra band is too loose by lifting your arms in the
air and putting them back down by your sides a couple of times. If the
bra rides up across your breasts, the band is too loose. If you're
looking for a sports bra, jump up and down in the fitting room a couple
of times to evaluate the bra's bounce control.


You may also want to try on a T-shirt or sweater over a bra you're
thinking of buying to get the finished effect. That pink rose on the
front may look cute on the bra itself, but does it make you look as if
you've sprouted a third breast once your T-shirt's on? Also pay
attention to the color of the bra - ones that are closest to your skin
color will be the least noticeable under light colored clothing.


No matter what the size or shape of a girl's breasts, the most
important thing to remember in choosing a bra is comfort. Try on a
variety of bras to find the one that's right for you. Some girls prefer
the comfort of cotton, others like the support of synthetics or
underwires. There are minimizer bras for girls who'd like their breasts
to look smaller, or padded bras for girls who'd like a little extra
shape. No one bra is better than another — it all depends on which style
works best for you.